Yesterdays project was to do the PSU and I must say this is the most rewarding step I've done so far. The noise in the machine is drastically reduced by swapping/upgrading the bulk electrolytes. If it's one thing you want to do to this puppy it is this. I upgraded from 2200uF stock to 2x4700uF low impedance caps. The new caps were 18x35mm and the clearance to the bottom lid is about 36 mm so I recommend to you not to use no more than 30mm height. There is also a 6V rail that has 1000uF stock that i upped to 2200uF. Stock dimensions on the PSU caps are 2x 16x30mm and 16x20mm.
I removed the PSU board from the underside by pulling it to the side, under all the cabling, after removing and carefully mark all connectors. After dropping a screw in there i found a much better way. The cabling to the back panel are long enough so if you remove 4 screws on the back you can fold it right out and remove the PSU board that way. Much easier. You still need to remove the bottom cover to unscrew the board and remove the connectors though.
The board inside the chassis. It was really tricky pulling it to the side under the cabling. Don't do it. Pull it out from the back instead.
The board
The caps
My way of doing a little dual cap assembly
The assemblies mounted on the boards. There was, of course, less space than I estimated when i ordered the caps and 4700uF was the biggest caps my convenient supplier had in stock. I recommend getting larger capacitance in one capsule if you are not used to work on electronics. It is very easy to do this if you use stock dimension caps. I recommend this upgrade even for non experienced people.
I couldn't resist adding some extra caps in there. These are 47uF on the secondary side of the regulators in the holes for the cables. there are 22uF mounted on the secondary, I feel this is way to little and they are mounted too far from the regulators. Notice the marking on the connector, can't stress this enough, you will forget were they were when you reassemble.
Conclusion, as stated in the beginning, if you would like to do just one thing on your machine, upgrade the PSU and enjoy the loss of ssssssssssssssssssssssss. I wouldn't say its dead silent but its way better than before.
I removed the PSU board from the underside by pulling it to the side, under all the cabling, after removing and carefully mark all connectors. After dropping a screw in there i found a much better way. The cabling to the back panel are long enough so if you remove 4 screws on the back you can fold it right out and remove the PSU board that way. Much easier. You still need to remove the bottom cover to unscrew the board and remove the connectors though.
The board inside the chassis. It was really tricky pulling it to the side under the cabling. Don't do it. Pull it out from the back instead.
The board
The caps
My way of doing a little dual cap assembly
The assemblies mounted on the boards. There was, of course, less space than I estimated when i ordered the caps and 4700uF was the biggest caps my convenient supplier had in stock. I recommend getting larger capacitance in one capsule if you are not used to work on electronics. It is very easy to do this if you use stock dimension caps. I recommend this upgrade even for non experienced people.
I couldn't resist adding some extra caps in there. These are 47uF on the secondary side of the regulators in the holes for the cables. there are 22uF mounted on the secondary, I feel this is way to little and they are mounted too far from the regulators. Notice the marking on the connector, can't stress this enough, you will forget were they were when you reassemble.
Conclusion, as stated in the beginning, if you would like to do just one thing on your machine, upgrade the PSU and enjoy the loss of ssssssssssssssssssssssss. I wouldn't say its dead silent but its way better than before.
Hi I really want to do eliminate the hssssssss sound from my m30 but I'm worried about destroying it. Do you have a list of necessary tools and the items you used for this step? thx!
SvaraRadera